This site is wonderful so I grabbed it and emailed the site owner for permission.  She has a wonderful Rat Pack of her own and I admire her for her lovely family.  :)

The Great Outdoors
Whether is's a sit on the front lawn or a walk into town every animal loves the sun and fresh air of the outdoors. Here are some ways to let your rats safely enjoy their trip out of the house.

Harnesses
A curious rat might wander off without knowing it and then become lost. A harness gives an extra element of safety. But remember that a rat can still squirm out of a harness and a predator, such as a neighborhood cat, can come out of nowhere without warning. You can buy a harness or make your own tailored to your rat's own measurements.

Homemade Harnesses
Pamela Anderson's Official Rat Harness - Easy pattern to make your own harness tailored to fit your individual rat.

Harnesses You Can Buy


Outdoor Enclosures
You could just bring your rat's cage outside... or you could make or buy an enclosure so your rat can run around in the grass. Look out for poisonous or suspicious plants.

Things to Remember
The Dapper Rat's Tips of Keeping Rats Cool/Warm - Make sure your rat doesn't overheat or get too cold on your trip

• Spare Cage - how to make a cheap, simple spare cage for travel, vet visits, quarantine, etc.
• Free ranging rats - tips to prevent problems when free ranging your rats.
• Cool rats - effective and fun ways to keep rats cool in the heat of summer.
• Warm rats - how to keep your rats warm during winter's chill.
• Litter training - Yes!  You can train your rat to use a litter tray!
• Our rat diet - what we feed our boys to give you some ideas for feeding yours.
• Care of older rats - some tips to help your rats enjoy their old age.
• Introductions - some tips for introducing rats to new companions.
• Rat bathing - do rats need it?  And some tips to help the ordeal go smoothly for both of you.
• The Art of Scritching - some techniques for sending your rat into a state of eye boggling bliss.
• Claw clipping - some tips to help the ordeal go smoothly for both of you.
• Itchy rat - a step-by-step guide to determing the cause of and treating an itchy rat.
• The Rat Diary - a handy way to keep track of your rats' information, health and happiness.

Spare Cage

It is always a good idea to have a spare cage on hand just in case... just in case one rat is sick and needs a hospital tank, or needs to be fed medications away from the other rats.  Or if you get a new little one who needs quarantining, or even if you're traveling with your rats.  "But cages are expensive!" I hear you say.  Well... here is a great spare cage you can make for about AUD$10 (US$6).

1.  Go to your local discount department store, like K-mart or Target.
2.  Find a transparent plastic tub, the type with the clip-on lids. You can pick up a 25 litre one for under AUD$10.
3.  Cut the flat bit of the lid out, leaving a 1/2 inch edge around the sides.  You can do this by drilling four large holes in each corner and inserting a hacksaw to cut it out.  Smooth any sharp edges with a file.
4.  Cut a piece of wire mesh to fit inside the lid so it overlaps the 1/2 inch edges.  You can buy wire mesh for only a few dollars from a hardware store.
5.  Drill two small holes in each corner of the lid and use cable ties or twisted wire to hold the wire mesh in place.
6.  Attach a water bottle.  Drill a hole for the nozzle to poke through and use stick-on velcro to attach the bottle to the outside of the tank, or hang it inside from the wire lid.
7.  Velcro on a flat backed plastic parrot feeder inside the cage so that the food bowl isn't tossed around in transit.
8.  Make it comfy and homey.  You can drill 4 small holes and string up a hammock (or use suction cup hooks), or add a shoe box as a handy nest box and shelf in one.

And there you have it... a simple cheap spare cage.

Note:  These tubs are also good to have on hand if your need to evacuate your home in an emergency, especially if your rat cages are rather large and cumbersome.  Ensure you have enough to house all your rats in same sex groups.  They stack easily so don't take up much room.

Free ranging rats

There's not many things more enjoyable than letting your rats free range.  Watching them leap and zoom about in excitement, explore dark corners, and sleep in a comfy spot of their choice makes a little bit of effort on your part so worthwhile.

Before letting your rats free range you need to rat proof the area.  Obviously the most important thing is to prevent danger to your rat via electrical cords or escape routes.  A good place to start is to think like a new parent... if a baby can get itself into trouble with something, a rat will be able to do 10 times as much trouble.

Some ideas for electrical cords:

• Remove any cords that are not necessary.
• Remove cords from the rat'spath.  Rats will tend to run along the walls and lurk in corners, and will chew what they feel is "in their way".  You can either re-direct the cords, or tape them to the wall high enough to be out of rat reach.
• Cover any exposed cords in a split piece of garden hose
• Install an electrical safety cut-out switch, just in case

Some ideas for blocking escape routes:

• Strategically placed bricks, pieces of wood or furniture can prevent your rat from getting into small places s/he shouldn't go, like behind the tv unit or under the sofa.
• A sheet of masonite or Plexiglas makes a handy "gate" to block off a doorway to keep rats in while you can still climb over it.  It can be held in place by a tight fit or by slotting it between two nails.
• Taping some cardboard so that it projects over the edge of bookshelves will prevent your rat from climbing up high.

Some ideas for preventing chewing:

• Remove anything you don't want chewed or peed on.
• Provide lots of chew toys and fun things to keep your rat occupied while free ranging, to divert attention from your antique furniture.
• Consider trying some preventatives on problem spots, like bitter apple spray, ginger, tabasco or similar sauce.
• Double sided tape can also discourage chewing and climbing
• Pieces of plastic carpet runner are handy for covering carpet in corners that rats like to graze on.

Some other ideas for preventing rat trouble:

• Litter training ASAP and provide a litter tray in the free range area.  Details here.
• Teach your rat to come when s/he's called (have treats on hand).
• Always be careful where you sit, especially if you have a rocking chair or sofa bed... rats love to explore dark hidden places.
• Call out "Free Range!" to alert everyone to remove shoes, close doors, and BE ALERT to fuzzbutts on the floor.
• Ensure any other household pets are locked elsewhere.  No matter how much you trust them with the rats, instinct can overwhelm them and accidents can happen.
• Remove shoes before walking in a rat zone and learn the "ratty shuffle" so you don't accidentally tread on anyone.
• Don't let rats free range in a room with a chemically cleaned carpet, a new carpet, or a room where an artificial deodorizer is used.
• Large flat river rocks can be placed on top of the dirt in potted plants to discourage digging.
• Many houseplants are toxic to rats.  Either remove them or ensure the rats cannot chew on them.
• Carpet runners placed upside down (bumps up) can make an area you don't want your rats to go significantly less fun to hang out on.

And remember:  Rats will always be rats.  Expect some damage and admire it for what it is: ratty artfulness.

With thanks to all on the ratlist who contributed to this article.

Cool Rats

Rats are particularly susceptible to heat and humidity and should be kept in conditions below about 25*C.
In hot weather, it's important to keep an eye on your rats for signs of heat stress.  In particular, any of your rats who are overweight or sick as they will be more affected.

Some signs your rat is over-heated:

• Slowed movement, lethargy
• Apathy (even for treats)
• Tail, feet, ears and nose hot to touch
• Sprawled position, often with feet stretched out behind them (so they can lose heat through the soles of their feet)
• Mouth gaping open or panting
• Drooling
• Lying on their backs, feet in the air, mouth agape and not very responsive (dangerously hot!)

The best option for preventing overheating is to keep your rats in an air conditioned room.  If this is not possible, you need to keep them cool in other ways.

Some ideas for keeping rats cool:

• Fill a spray can with water and wet the rats down (make sure you don't spray it in their eyes).  Alternatively, wipe them down often with a wet sponge
• Drape a wet towel over part of their cage and provide a cooling fan or open window with a breeze.
• Bath them in cool water.
• Freeze a bottle of water, wrap it in a towel and place it in the cage for an instant cage air conditioner.
• Provide them with lots of cool water to prevent dehydration.  Keep a spare bottle in the fridge and swap them regularly.
• Give them a terracotta pot.  These make great sleeping areas in summer as they stay cool.

Fun treats/games to help cool them down:

• Fruitsicles - Cut up fruit or vegetable pieces and freeze.  Good choices are watermelon, grapes, banana, honeydew, peas, corn, blueberries, etc.   Ice cubes made of of fruit juice, or containing frozen peas are a welcome treat too.
• Wading pool - Use a heavy shallow food bowl (or a pot plant drip tray), fill with water and toss in a few ice cubes.  The rats will sleep beside it to cool off, dangle their tails in the water, and lick the ice cubes.
• Ratty painting - Get a glass of cold water and a paint brush.  Dip the paintbrush in the water and paint your ratty's hairless bits, especially tail and feet.  This will help them cool off faster and give them a challenge (to grab the brush off you and rip it to pieces).
• Icehouse - Place their favourite nest box / loft / hammock in the fridge or freezer until it cools down.
• Fishing for peas.  See details here.

Warm rats

In general rats best handle temperatures from ~10 - 25*C.  Although they can cope with colder temperatures much better than hot.  If it is cold in your rat room during winter, there's lots of ways to provide warmth for your rats in their cage:

• Polar fleece pocket hammocks are my boys' favourite winter haunts.  They're warm, dark and comfy... the perfect place for a rat to while away a winter's day.  You can see our pocket hammocks here.
• A nest box is essential in all rat cages... for warmth, darkness and privacy.  For some great ideas for making nest boxes for your rats go here.
• Give your rats lots of paper towels in their nest box.  They'll have fun shredding them and this creates a very warm and cosy environment.
• Provide your rats with lots of fabric strips ...  old T-shirts, socks, fleecy off cuts, towels, etc.  Apart from being fun to burrow in and build nests with, they also provide warmth.
• More rats!   They can keep each other warm in big furry cuddling sleepy rat piles. (Sounds like as good a reason as any to succumb to New Rat Fever)
• A "warm buddy".  Fill a bottle with warm water, wrap in a towel and place in your rat's cage.  They can snuggle up next to it for warmth if they need to.  This is also a handy method for keeping rats warm during illness or transportation.
• Warm foods... vegetable soup, mashed potato, warm creamed corn, warm milk, etc.
• Heating mat.  If it's really cold during winter, you can provide a heating mat (ones used for reptile/fish tanks are good).  Only use on the low setting and place it under only one end of the cage.  That way the rats can move to a warm position that is just right and not overheat.

Wherever possible, try to keep the temperature in your rat room consistent.  Large variations in temperature can stress your rats and make them more susceptible to illness.

Litter Training

Rats are highly intelligent creatures and can be trained to do many simple tasks.  Litter training is something that is well worth a little effort on your part, as it can save you lots of time in cleaning up and also money in buying bedding.

The whole training methodology works on the premise that rats are clean creatures and will go to the toilet where they smell that they, or other rats, have already gone.  The procedure is as follows:

1.  Find the corner of the cage that your rats usually go to the toilet, then place a tray filled with litter there.  I use flat tupperware containers available from discount stores for about AUD$2 as a litter tray.
2.  Toss in any raisins or wet litter you can find in the cage to make it smell like a rat toilet area.
3.  Now this is the most important part...  Remove all litter from the rest of the cage, or use a different bedding.  It's essential that your rats can distinguish between the toilet area and the living area.  e.g. I use Breeders Choice recycled paper pellets in the litter tray, and old towels and fabric strips elsewhere as bedding.
4.  Place your rats in the tray to show them it's there.  If they go elsewhere in their cage, say "No!" and place the rat (and the raisins) in the litter tray.  If they go in the tray, praise them like crazy and give them their favourite treat.  They'll soon get the idea.

Often this training method will only work for raisins, not pee... especially with male rats who are determined to keep their cage well scented.  You can try removing pee smells by using products like Nilodor or vanilla, but often it just makes them more determined to re-scent it.  Of course, there's also those stubborn rats who simply will not use a tray no matter how hard you try.  Persist... after all, every raisin in the tray is one less you have to pick up later.

Litter training makes things so much easier on you.  It's much simpler to clean out the cage (just scoop out soiled litter and replace as needed) and certainly cheaper.  I think the rats much prefer the fabric and towels to live on anyway... it's less dusty, cleaner, softer on ratty feet, more fun to dig in and much quieter during those midnight skirmishes.

It's a good idea to have a litter tray for their use when outside their cage too... either as a separate play area tray, or simply access to their cage.  When you get them out to play, place them in the tray so they know where it is.  Every half hour or so, place them back in the tray to remind them it's there.  If they use it, praise them like crazy and offer them treats.

Good luck!

Our rat diet

This is what we feed our boys, to give you some ideas on what to feed your ratties for variety:

Their dry mix:

This is available to them at all times.  I also add some Pet City rat pellets to the bowl when I dish it out.

• 2 cups Lovatt's Pet Rat and Mouse Mix
• 2 cups Pet City Rat and Mouse Mix (a more "grassy" mix)
• 2 cups rolled oats
• 1 cup rolled triticale and/or barley
• 2 cups Kelloggs Sustain breakfast cereal (varied each batch using cereals such as Just Grains, Rice Bubbles, Puffed Wheat, Cornflakes, Puffed millet, etc.)
• 1/2 cup sweetened all-bran (pellet like cereal)
• Handful of sunflower seeds
• Anything else in the cupboard I think they'd like.

Breakfast:

One large piece of fruit to share... watermelon, rockmelon, honeydew, banana, grapes, blueberries, pears, apple, strawberries, peaches, pretty much anything here.
And one of the following (depending on what I'm having):
- bread with a little omega ultra (EFA) margarine and jam on it
- soy or dairy yogurt
- weetbix in milk
- porridge
- egg

Their fresh dinner mix:

This is what they get at evening dinner time.  I vary the mix each batch so the boys don't get bored.

• I/2 packet of wholewheat pasta spirals, cooked
• 2 cups of cooked brown rice
• 1 cup of cooked wholewheat grains
• 1 cup of chickpeas
• 1/2 cup of lentils
• 1/2 cup of red kidney, soy or butter beans (alternatively a can of mixed beans)
• 1 large packet of frozen peas
• 1 large packet of frozen corn
• 1 packet of frozen fresh soy beans (they LOVE these)
• 1 packet of frozen broad beans
• 1/4 small pumpkin, chopped into small pieces and cooked
• 1 sweet potato, chopped in small pieces and cooked
• Any other vegies I have on hand that will freeze OK.

This makes a large amount that I mix together and freeze in a tupperware container (loosen the mix with a fork as soon as it freezes, so it doesn't end up as a large solid block).  Then it's as simple as scooping a portion into a microwave cup and cooking/defrosting for 2 minutes before serving.  Although it seems like a lot of work to prepare, it only takes 30 minutes or so once a month, and 2 minutes a night to put it in a food dish.  Everyone, rat and human alike, seems happy with this feeding arrangement.

I also add a special treat to the top of it each night, like a small piece of ham, chicken, oyster, fish, tofu, or something we might be having for dinner.  Of course, they all eat straight off our dinner plate too.
I offer them a fresh raw vegie each night too, like broccoli, kale, cauliflower, spinach, tomato, corn on the cob, etc... these are foods they prefer raw and this adds more variety to their fresh mix.  It's important to offer as wide a variety of foods as possible to ensure they're getting sufficient nutrition.

Chew treats:

These are offered to keep those sharp ratty teeth occupied and healthy:

• Chicken bones (cooked)
• Nuts in their shell (macadamias, pecans and hazelnuts are their favourites)
• Baby teething rusks (vegetable-flavoured)
• Dog biscuits (Eukanuba Restricted Calorie Rewards - low in protein and fat)
• Rat seed treat sticks (the Vitakraft ones are particularly hard and require lots of gnawing)

General treats:

These treats we feed only occasionally and in small quantities:

• Yogurt drops - the human ones available from Coles and Health Food Stores (brand name Soland)
• Yogurt coated dried fruits
• Avocado - small cubes (avoid the area around the seed and just under the skin as it contains toxins)
• Creamed corn
• Cottage cheese / cream cheese (low fat Philly)
• Chocolate chips

Caring for older rats

There are several special considerations that may need to be taken into account when you're dealing with an aging rat.

Inactivity

When rats get older, they do slow down and even normally active rats start spending more time sleeping and cuddling when out for exercise with their humans.  This is the time you get the squishy cuddly lap rat you've always hoped for... enjoy these bonding moments with your furry old friend.

Reduced mobility

Older rats are prone to weakness caused by muscle wasting, degeneration of the spinal cord, pituitary adenoma or stroke.  More information here: Weakness in older rats: A paralysis primer
Hind leg paralysis is quite common, particularly in male rats.  Treatment with anti inflammatory drugs (like prednisone or metacam) or anabolic steroids (like laurabolin) can be of some assistance with this condition.  But most paralysed rats get along amazingly well despite their disability.

Environment

An elderly rat will usually adapt just fine with some modifications to his environment.  Be sure to make his home safe and easy for him to navigate.  Some suggestions:

• Replace steep ladders with low, wide ramps with good grip (covering them with fabric or waterproof marine carpet can often help).
• Place food and water on each level of the cage so he doesn't need to travel far if hungry.
• Provide a hammock or soft bedding below shelves in case of a fall.
• Opt for a one level cage or aquarium.
• Cover any exposed wire... weaker rats are more likely to get their feet or claws caught in the wire.
• Lower his water bottle so he can reach it without standing up.
• Replace high hammocks with a floor level snuggle sack or nest box.
• Ensure his cagemates aren't bothering him... you may need to separate them if problems arise.
• Keep a consistent temperature range... older rats are more prone to respiratory problems and generally have less fat for warmth.  A heating mat positioned under one end of his cage may be useful during winter.
• More regular cage cleaning is essential as an immobile rat may not be able to move away from soiled bedding, and may spill food and water.
• A change to fabric bedding can be helpful to prevent pieces of litter getting caught in an immobile rat's mouth or eyes, and it's also easier to move through.

Grooming

When rats get older, they can have some difficulty grooming sufficiently due to weakness.  You may have to help him with this.

• A daily wipe down with a damp cloth or wet soft bristled brush can help keep his coat groomed.
• Rats use their feet to clean their ears, so you may need to remove built-up wax with a Q-tip once a week.
• Holding your rat upright in your lap can allow him to groom using both hands, something which is difficult with hind leg weakness.
• Regular clipping of his back claws will be necessary as they won't be worn down normally.
• Old immobile rats may start having bladder control problems.  If this happens, wash his belly clean when he does wet himself, as the urine can burn and irritate the skin.
• Moving his limbs around with gentle range of motion exercises will help keep his joints flexible.

Diet

Old rats will not eat as much as they used to, so it's important that you provide them with highly nutritious foods.

• Extra high calorie treats are good to help keep muscle condition.
• Provide soft, pureed foods that don't require being held to eat, like baby food, pureed vegetables and fruits, rat blocks soaked in soy milk, "nutrical" high calorie paste, avocado, porridge, yogurt, etc.
• A vitamin and mineral supplement can ensure your rat is getting his complete nutritional requirements.

If your old rat is having trouble standing on his hind legs to eat, you may need to provide a low dish rather than a deep bowl for his food.  Syringe feeding may be necessary when self feeding becomes difficult.
More information on feeding elderly rats here:  Rat Nutrition

Health concerns

As rats age their immune system declines and they can become more prone to respiratory illnesses.  They also take longer to recover from such ailments than younger rats.  Other health issues associated with limited mobility include bladder infections, skin problems and fall injuries.

The sad farewell

We all wish our beloved old rats will pass away quietly in their sleep of extreme old age.  However, there may come a time when you need to decide whether your old rat is still enjoying good quality of life.  As difficult a decision as this may be for you, you should be prepared for this in advance.  Contact a good rat vet in your area and ensure s/he uses a humane method of euthanasia and that you are permitted to be present during the procedure (if you wish).  More information on humane euthanasia here:  Humanely Euthanising Rats
Being prepared in advance will ensure you and your rat get through this emotional time without additional stress.

For more information, see these articles:

• Care of Older Paralyzed Rats
• Nursing Care

Introductions

Before you consider introductions... have you quarantined your new rat?  Details here: Quarantining New Rats

There are times when you need to introduce a new rat to your existing group.. whether it's ratlets, an older rat, or even cagemates that have been separated for a time.  Adding a new rat to an established group can sometimes cause problems as the new rat finds it's place in the social structure.

Any new rat arriving is going to be investigated by all the residents... whether that be a half-hearted butt sniff, a power groom or an outright attack from the alpha.  But there are ways to help the introduction process go smoothly, as outlined in the following articles:

• Introducing New Rats
• Rat Introductions
• Introducing Rats to New Companions

Even following these guidelines, you should still expect some amount of scuffling during introductions: squeaking, chasing, nipping, power grooming (where one rat pins the other down and grooms his belly or sniffs his butt), standing up and staring at each other, boxing, etc.  As long as no one gets seriously hurt (i.e. blood) then it's better to leave them to sort out their social structure.  Soon enough they'll be curled up together in the communal hammock.

Watch out for the signs of serious aggression: puffed up fur, sidling up to the other rat (to appear larger), biting and hissing.  Also look for signs that the new or submissive rat might be scared or being injured, like screeching or screaming and cowering.  If this happens, have a towel ready to throw on top of them, some heavy work gloves, or a piece of cardboard or book to separate them.  Don't get yourself bitten by accident.

For your best chance of acceptance into an established group (or to an old lonely rat), consider adding several young rats (6-10 weeks of age). This is recommended for several reasons:
1.  The older rats will not consider them a threat to their dominance
2.  The ratlets will enjoy their rampant youthful play with each other rather than annoying the older lazier rats too much
3.  The alpha rat is less likely to pick on just one of them
4.  Once your old rats pass on the babies will grow up together and you're not left with another introduction process.

Keep in mind that, like humans, rats have personality clashes and some rats will simply not get along together.  If despite trying all these tips your introductions don't go well, you may need to consider keeping those rats in separate cages.

Rat Bathing

Do rats need to be bathed regularly?

Rats don't actually need baths as they groom pretty much all day to keep themselves clean.  But there are times you might need to bath them, like:

• If they get something yucky on their fur you'd rather they didn't groom off and ingest
• If they like to marinate in pee soaked bedding and end up stinky
• If it's for medical treatment, like a bath for a skin condition or to treat for parasites
• In preparation for a rat show
• If they are overcome by "buck grease"  i.e. that orangey - oily male hormonal skin discharge
• If they are old or incapacitated and aren't grooming themselves sufficiently
• If it's really hot and you need to cool them down
• If they actually enjoy it... believe me, there are actually some rats who do love baths

How to bathe a rat

There's lots of different methods for bathing rats, and you need to work with your rat's personality to find out which works best for them.  Here's what I do:

1.  Prepare the area:

• Fill the sink with warm water - a little hotter than you think, rats have higher body temperatures that us.
• Clear the bench of any clutter and place down a towel for the rat to stand on when wet.
• Have shampoo open and ready - a mild small animal shampoo (we use Epi-Soothe oatmeal shampoo)
• Have a dry towel or two within reach
• Perhaps also a bristle brush for grooming

2.  Don protective clothing.  You will get wet and probably scratched inadvertently.  I actually prefer to bathe my rats without wearing long sleeves as this makes it a little less easy for them to climb your arms and cling wetly to your neck.

3.  Grab unsuspecting rat and quickly dunk him up to the neck in the water, holding him there until he is wet through.  Ensure you keep his head and ears free of water.  Let him leap out of the sink onto the towel on the bench, he will probably shake and spray you with water.  Placate him with soothing words of love... he won't believe a word of it, but it makes you feel not quite so mean.

4.  Using a small amount of shampoo, lather your rat up using your nails to get down through to the base of the fur.  This is also a handy time to clean his tail with a toothbrush (brush towards the tip).  Your rat will either scream bloody murder at the indignity of this or squeak plaintively and shiver miserably while giving you the "Don't you love me anymore?" mope.  Be strong.

5.  Dunk your rat back into the water to remove all trace of the shampoo.  Let him leap out onto the towel on the bench (he will probably shake and spray you with water again).

6.  Bundle him up in a dry towel and rub rub rub... he'll like this part.  A groom with a bristled brush helps to smooth and separate the wet fur and thus dry his coat faster naturally.  If it's a cold day, ensure you dry him completely so he doesn't get chilled afterwards.  Perhaps use a hairdryer on low setting if he'll tolerate it, or place him in a warm room to dry naturally.

7.  Offer copious treats, which he'll take willingly and eat while glaring at you.  Forgiveness will come with time.

Contrary to this, some rats do actually enjoy a bath and will swim about in the sink.  In fact, it gets easier each time as your rat learns it's not actually going to kill him after all.

Some more bathing tips:

• Work fast - the quicker the less stress involved for you and your rat.
• It's important not to bathe your rat with shampoo too often as it can remove the natural skin oils, resulting in dry itchy skin.  Bathe as often as necessary with water only, and use a mild, natural shampoo only sparingly.
• Speak calmly, soothingly and encouragingly to your rat during the whole process.
• Consider clipping your rats claws a day before the bath... it may save your arms from serious injury. See Claw Clipping below.
• Expect some madness in the cage post bath, especially from your alpha rat.  When the shampoo/clean smell takes over from rat smell, your alpha may feel the need to reassert himself by rubbing against and peeing on everything, puffing menacingly, hopping about madly and grooming everyone.

The Art of Scritching

Scritching is the collective term for petting, rubbing, massaging, scratching, kissing, cuddling, grooming, fondling, tickling and otherwise showing your rat just how much you love him/her.

Some rats will happily relax for hours at the mercy of your hands, bruxing their little furry hearts out in delight or falling asleep peacefully in your lap.  But don't be upset if your rat won't endure extensive scritching sessions... specifically girls and young rats, who typically are constantly on the go, having things to do, places to see, stuff to chew, etc.  But they'll still enjoy a quick scritch before powering off, and will most likely be more amenable to long scritching sessions as they mellow with age.

Here's some tried and true techniques for sending your rats into a state of eye boggling bliss:

Massaging:

• Grab a handful of your rat's loose skin (best on the back and sides) and rub firmly between your fingers in a back and forth motion.
• Massage your rat all over his back with your fingers in a slow firm circular motion.
• Consider purchasing the book "The Tellington Touch" by Linda Tellington-Jones, which describes an holistic massage therapy for animals.

Scratching:

• Sit your rat on your lap so that he's facing you and seated on his butt, holding his body upright with your thumbs under his armpits.  Using your fingernails, scratch firmly along each side of his spine, running up and down his back.
• Scratch your rat's butt, just above his tail.  This makes my boys lick my hand.  :)
• A single fingernail scratch just behind your rat's ear is a firm favourite.
• Many rats love a scratch on their cheek just behind where their mouth ends.
• A fingernail scratch along your rat's furry sides is always welcome.
• Some brazen hussy girl rats will press themselves against the cage bars so that you can scratch their whole bellies through the bars.
• Try a good firm scratch on the shoulder blades, just above where the front leg attaches to the body.

Rubbing:

• Favourite rubbing locations include around the ears, head and butt.
• Place your rat on the floor/sofa/table in front of you, and place your palms along each of his sides.  Then move your hands up and down quickly, like you're chaffing him to warm him up on a cold day.
• Try a firm circular motion with your fingers, getting right down to the skin and mussing the fur.

Stroking:

• Many rats love a long slow stroke from nose tip to tail tip.
• When rats are sleepy, they often enjoy a soft slow smoothing of the fur on their face, whisker area and head.  Use the soft pad of your thumb for best results.
• "Velcro" your rat to your chest (i.e. let him cling to your chest) while you rapidly and firmly stroke him from head to butt with your whole hand, one hand after the other.
• A backwards stroke from butt to head, firm and against the fur growth, is loved by many rats.
• A grooming with a soft bristled brush, firm so it gets right down through the coat, is a great way to scritch your rat and keep his coat looking spiffy at the same time.

Tickling:

• Flip your rat over so he's sitting on his butt in your lap, facing away from you, hold him upright with your thumbs under his armpits.  Now tickle his belly, chest and under chin area with your fingers.  This should be combined with much giggling and cheerful smoochy baby talk.
• A quick light pinch on your rat's butt will send him bouncing off playfully during free range time.
• Lie your rat upside down on a soft cushion/pillow/bed, place your hands either side of his body and then roll him lightly from side to side.  This should be combined with much belly kissing for best effect.
• Hold your hand palm up and, with fingers tickling madly, advanced the hand under your rat from the front.  You will end up with a rat on your hand, squirming cheerfully as you're tickling his chest and belly.

Kissing:

• Rats love belly kisses and raspberries... and even if they don't we love giving these to them.  :)
• A soft kiss on top of a furry ratty head is often appreciated.
• Many rats enjoy a kiss on their whiskery noses and will reciprocate with a lick on your lips or nose.

Remember that all rats are individuals and what one likes, another may not.  You need to try each of these techniques (and any others you can think of!) out on your rats to find which one/s hit the spot.  Ratties everywhere enjoy!

With thanks to the ratlist for inspiration and contributions from Missy, Moca and Claire.

Claw clipping

Rat claws are designed for digging and climbing and thus are naturally long and sharp.  This is great for a wild rat, but not so good if you like cuddling with your favourite pet.  Rat claws, like human fingernails, grow continuously during their lives.  Usually they are kept short by normal wearing away on abrasive surfaces like rocks, branches, digging in soil, etc. As these are often not available to a pet rat, claw clipping is an option you may choose to do regularly.

Is it necessary?

Claw clipping is not essential, unless the claws grow so long that they are causing trouble for the rat (e.g. getting caught in cage wire and torn out, or causing cuts on their skin during normal grooming).  It's also wise to clip your rat's claws during treatment for external parasites, as this can prevent skin injury during excessive scratching.  But, usually we choose to clip their claws to prevent us from getting scratched when they play on us... human skin has poor traction.

How often?

As to how often to clip them... well, that will depend a lot on the rat's environment.  If they have lots of rough things to climb on
(branches, rocks, brick under their water bottle, etc.) then they will keep the claws down continually and you may never need to
clip them yourself (see Prevention below).  On the other hand, if they wallow in the plush luxury of fabric strips and soft hammocks you may have to clip their claws every few weeks.  If you have an allergy to rat scratches, regular claw clipping is essential.

How do you do it?

There's many techniques to choose from, depending on the personality of your rat.  I use a regular small human nail clipper.  We use two big strong people for one itty bitty little ratty.  One holds the rat's body still, the other holds the foot and does the clipping.  It helps to bundle the rat up in a towel if you have a particularly squirmy and/or troublesome rat.  Others have had better luck by placing the rat on a shoulder, so that their toes splay out while trying to grip, and distracting the rat with a yogurt drop.  If you're doing this alone, try placing your rat's nose in your elbow, holding him in place with your forearm and stretching his foot out behind him to clip the claws.  See what works best for your rat, but keep a few of these tips in mind:

• Choose a time when your rat is sleepy/lazy, like after dinner or play time.  If he squirms and complains a lot, give him a break and try again later.
• Be fast... the shorter the ordeal, the better for both of you.
• Make it a calm experience... talk soothingly to your rat, scritch him, give him a cuddle break between feet, etc.
• Lots of praise and a treat immediately afterwards reinforces the clipping as a positive experience.

Just take the very sharp tip off the claw, being sure not to cut too far down to the quick (red bit in centre of nail) as this can bleed
profusely.  Have some corn flour or styptic powder on hand to dip the claw in to stem the blood flow, just in case.
It does get easier each time you clip your rat's claws, as you become more proficient and your rat realises it's not all that bad after all.

Prevention:

To keep your rat's claws down continuously, you can try some preventative measures.  Place a rough brick in their cage, preferably somewhere they have to go a lot, like under the water bottle.  Other options are including a rock in their cage (perhaps as a step to a higher shelf), a climbing branch, or offer them an occasional digging box, etc.

Itchy rat

There's quite a few excellent articles on the internet that provide information on treatment of specific skin problems in rats (relevant links are included below).  But more often than not, you're uncertain as to exactly what's causing the problem.  This article provides a step-by-step guide to dealing with an itchy rat when you're uncertain of the cause.  If at any time you're unsure of your diagnosis or treatment, or if the skin problem is causing your rat excessive stress, you should consult a qualified vet.

Itching and/or scabs (and often resulting hair loss) is the most common skin problem in rats.  This can be caused by a number of factors:

• External parasites - lice, mites and fleas
• Diet - excess protein, lack of essential fatty acids, food allergies
• Contact allergies - to bedding, cleaning products, etc.
• Injuries - from long claws, barbering, fights with cagemates
• Dry skin and dandruff
• Skin infections - bacterial, fungal, etc.

However, it's often difficult to determine which of these is causing your rat's problem (it may even be several of them).  So here's a step-by-step plan of action for treatment of scabs and itching in rats:

1.  Examination

Skin problems in rats are quite common, so you should inspect your rat's skin regularly.  Some things you might find and what they indicate:

• Bugs moving about, or their eggs attached to the base of hairs - parasite infestation
• Scabs, cuts or other sores
• Excessive itching
• Hair loss
• Dandruff and dry skin - dry air in your rat's living area, over bathing, lack of EFAs in your rat's diet
• Rash, lesions, redness, offensive smell, skin infection, etc. - consult a vet for examination and treatment
• Orange oily discharge and/or dandruff - this is normal for hormonal males and is not a medical concern

Obviously if you see parasites, you've found the main cause of your rat's itching.  But scabs, itching and hair loss alone are non-specific signs.  If you don't find any particular reason for your rat's itching, then you need to work through the following steps to determine the cause.

2.  Clip your rat's claws

If your rat has long, sharp claws, they can cause cuts and scratches to their skin during normal grooming.  Likewise, if your rat is being barbered (over groomed) by a cagemate or fighting often, he may end up with scratches.  In turn, the scratches will become inflamed and itchy, causing subsequent injury.

Clipping your rats claws regularly can prevent further injury.  See Claw Clipping (previous article) for information and tips.  You can apply antiseptic cream (preferably also containing anaesthetic) to any cuts to help with healing.

This may well solve your rat's itching problem, but if he continues to scratch then you need to move on to the next step.  Even if it doesn't solve the problem, clipped claws will prevent further injury while you determine the underlying cause.

3.  Treat for external parasites

Rats can get mites, lice and fleas, all of which can cause itching and scabs on the skin, particularly around the neck and shoulders.  Information on identifying and treating these can be found here:

• What's bugging your rats and mice?
• Mites, Lice and fleas

This is probably the most common reason for itching and scabs in rats.  Don't rule out this possibility simply because:
(a) you can't see any bugs moving about - mites are tiny!
(b) you haven't introduced any new rats - parasites can arrive via contaminated bedding or food, wild rats having access to your rat's play area, or on your clothing after interaction with a friend's or pet shop's rats
(c) your other rats aren't scabby too - sometimes mites can overrun just one of your rats if his immune system is lowered.
It's often wise to treat for parasites before considering the other possible causes of itching and scabs.  Determining dietary problems and allergies can take weeks of trial and error, while the possibility of parasites can be solved after one week of treatment.

No matter what the bugs are, ivermectin is usually prescribed. You can either take your rat to the vet for an injection (Ivomec), or better yet, dose him and all his cagemates orally with ivermectin yourself.  You can get it from most pet or tack shops, sold as horse worming paste.  [Equimec in Australia, Equimectrin in the U.S., active ingredient ivermectin - 18.7g/kg].  Adult rats (300-500g) get a small amount equivalent to a grain of uncooked rice.  You should split the dose for younger rats, depending on their weight.  Dose once a week, for at least 3 weeks.  The paste isn't mixed well, and since you're giving such a small dose, it's safest to decant all the paste into a small container (like a film canister or baby food jar) and mix it well before taking the rat dose out.

Alternatively you could try some lice spray containing pyrethrin (with no more than 0.15% pyrethrin).  One sold for birds is often a suitable concentration for rats.

Treatment should start working within a few days.  Don't stop the 3 week treatment early though, as you still have to protect the rats from hatching eggs. You should strip down their cage and give it and any toys, hammocks, areas they play in, etc. a thorough disinfecting several times during the dosing.  Also consider the possible sources of the bugs, like infested bedding and food, wild rat access to your pet's area, new rats introduced, cross contamination from your clothes, friends rats, pet shop, etc.

If your rat continues to scratch after one week, then the itching and scabs are probably not the result of parasites, so you should continue to the next step.

4.  Consider your rat's diet

A diet too high in protein and fat can cause itching and scabs, in particular around the chin and face.  Cut back on high fat and protein foods (like sunflower seeds, nuts, dairy products, meat scraps, etc.).  Feed a balanced rat diet, like a rodent block and fresh vegetables and fruit.  A vitamin supplement may also help.  Information on a healthy rat diet here:

• Rat Nutrition
• Food glorious food
• Debbie Ducommun's Rat Diet (available in her Rat Health Care booklet)

A diet deficient in the essential fatty acids can also cause scabs (often along with dry skin and dandruff).  EFAs are found in oily fish, seeds like flax and sunflower, and nuts (walnuts and peanuts in particular).  They can also be obtained by supplement.

Rats, like humans, can have food allergies.  Some problem foods include dairy products, corn and soy proteins.  You will need to use trial and error to determine which, if any, foods are causing the problem.  Remove one food each week, recording your rat's diet and skin response in a diary.  Food allergies are not common in rats, and determining the problem food can take a long time to figure out, so consider all the other possible causes of itching first.

5.  Consider your rat's living environment

Although uncommon, rats can have allergic reactions (like contact dermatitis) to products used in their cage or living room.  It would be unusual for your rat to suddenly start to react to the bedding he's been on for awhile, but if you have recently changed your brand of bedding, this may be the cause of his itching.  If so, changing back to the previous bedding, or using fabric strips and paper towels for awhile, would be a good idea to see if this is the cause.

Likewise, consider any other new products you may be using in your rat's area... cage cleaning products, washing liquid, fabric softener, deodorant, even your own perfume, scented candles, etc.  As with food allergies, remove one product each week and record your rat's response in a diary.

Rat skin can become dry and flaky, and subsequently itchy, if they are kept constantly in dry conditions such as air conditioning and central heating.  If this becomes a problem you can provide a humidifier, keep a water spray bottle on hand to dampen the air and/or your rat, or bring your rats into the bathroom with you when you shower.

6.  Still itching?

If your rat doesn't respond to any of these treatments, you may be dealing with a skin infection (such as a bacterial infection, ringworm or other fungal infection, excema, etc.).  These are usually identified by redness, lesions or a rash and should be examined
(usually by skin scraping and microscopic examination) and treated by a qualified vet.

For more information, see Skin Problems.
 

The Rat Diary

No matter how many rats you have, it's always a good idea to keep a rat diary.  This is for recording all kinds of information about your rats, from their birth dates to their health.  Here's some of the information you might consider including in a rat diary.

General information:

• Your rats' birthdates - they only get a few birthdays, you wouldn't want to miss the party!
• Adoption dates for new rats, and quarantine procedures undertaken (if necessary).
• General care - the dates you last bathed them, clipped claws, cleaned tails, etc.
• Maintenance - major cage cleaning days, any new equipment or cleaning products used, etc.
• Purchases - note when you purchased medications and their expiry dates, new batches of bedding or food (handy to know if you get an unexpected parasite infestation).
• Rat weights - record the weight of all your rats every week.  With ratlets it's handy to see if they're growing consistently.  With older rats it can be an important indicator of health, as rats tend to hide illnesses very well and weight loss is often the first indicator of a problem.

Medical information:

• Signs of illness - note any signs that your rat is unwell.  Include things like porphyrin, lethargy, breathing (noisy, laboured, rapid, etc), pain (hunched posture, squeaking, fluffed fur, etc), sneezing, wounds, accidents, etc.  Obviously, consult a vet asap if the condition is serious.
• Well being - note anything you notice about your rats that is not normal.  For example, one day Bramble looked "off", just quieter and not his usual cheerful self, two days later he developed an abscess in his belly.  This kind of pre-information can be very helpful to your vet should your rat become sick.
• Vet visits - symptoms, name of vet seen, outcome of examination or tests, medications given, etc.
• Medications - drugs, dosages, and responses if your rat is sick.

Of course, this is just a start, include anything else you think might be useful.  Your rat dairy serves as a record of all your rats' information, experiences and health care, and also as an archive of their weights and birthdays and other memorable moments from year to year.  And take it along to your vet with you if your rat is sick... the information may be helpful to your vet.

These articles by no means cover all aspects of rat care.  If you require further information, see the Rat Care Links.

If you have further rat care questions, you can direct them to the Rat Info address ratinfo@yahoogroups.com, where informed volunteers will help you as soon as possible.
 
Ecto-parasites are the external parasites that infect all living creatures. Those that infect rats and mice most commonly include lice and mites. Sometimes, even though it is less common, we see infestations of fleas, flies, or ticks, but since the main ones to affect our pets are lice and mites, this article is only about those nasty critters. Once your pets are infected by external parasites, it can be difficult to treat them successfully, but it isn’t impossible. It is important to understand the life cycle of parasites in order to successfully treat your pets and keep those pesky bugs off of them.

Taxonomy is the system to establish the hierarchy and classification of a given group of organisms. Mites and ticks are classified as arachnids; lice and fleas as insects. The lice are further classified into groups of blood sucking (Anoplura) and the non-blood sucking, biting lice (Mallophaga). Mites can cause mange in rodents just as they can in dogs. Lice, and some mites, can be seen without a microscope, but other mites need to be diagnosed by a vet using the skin scraping method and a microscope.

Keeping that little phrase in mind helps you to remember that lice are species specific. Infestation by lice is called pediculosis. Although rats and mice may both be infected with lice, those lice will not cross over from one species of animal to another. The lice of rats and mice are the same genus, but they are not the same species. Rat lice are Polyplax spinulosa and mouse lice are Polyplax serrata. If a mouse louse jumps onto a rat, it won’t take long for it to realize this rat is not its food source and will jump off to find a mouse, and vise versa. This also means you will not catch lice from your pets, and if you were infected with head lice, you could not transfer them to your pets. Transmission from mouse to mouse or rat to rat is by direct contact and by fomites (objects).

Both the mouse and rat lice are Anoplura (bloodsuckers), making it vital to your pet that you rid them of these pests as quickly as possible. These can cause anemia, but even more importantly for rats, they may transmit the blood parasite Hemobartonella muris, which is a rickettsial blood parasite similar to tick fever. They may also transmit Rickettsia typhi between rats. The Ricketsia typhi (not typhoid fever, but much like tick fever) may be passed to humans via rat fleas. These blood parasites can be more deadly to your pet than the lice.

Mites are different than lice because they are not species specific. However, they are generally host specific, meaning they will usually attack only a certain species host, but they will sometimes cross over from one species to another. They will do this if their choice of host is not available. Infestation by mites is called acariasis. There are three categories of mites that infect mice and rats: fur mites, burrowing mites, and the most serious, bloodsucking mites.

The three most common mites of mice are the fur mites, Myobia musculi, Myocoptes musculinus, and Radfordia affinis. These are not bloodsuckers and are often endemic to mice populations with no visible symptoms. Transmission between mice is by direct contact. These mites are not known to infect humans. These mites won’t cause harm to the mouse unless the infestation is heavy, or unless the mouse’s immune system is in some other way compromised. Symptoms you may see are patches of hair loss or skin lesions and ulcerations. That sounds as if it’s not so bad for mice, however, mice don’t get off so easily because rat mites may also attack them and cause severe problems.

Rats may be infected with three types of mites. Radfordia ensifera, the fur mite of rats, is very similar to the fur mites of mice. They won’t cause problems unless the infestation is heavy or the rat is ill with another disease. Symptoms will be the same as those of mice, patches of hair loss with possible skin ulceration or lesions. These also are not known to infect humans.

Burrowing mites of rats are Notoedres muris. These are the ear mange mites. A skin scraping and a microscope are needed to see these mites. They attack the ear pinnae, tail, nose, and extremities. Lesions caused by this mite are reddened, crusty, itchy areas. These mites are spread by direct contact, so it is important that you keep wild mice and rats away from your pets. They may also infect other rodents, but are not known to infect humans.

The bloodsucking mites that infect rats and may also infect mice are Ornithonyssus bacoti. They are the most dangerous to your pets. This one is closely related to ticks and is especially common in tropical and subtropical areas. This is the one that will feed on rodent blood, then drop off to hide in wood products, cracks, and crevices in or near the cage. O. bacoti will cause anemia, and, like the lice, it will also transmit rickettsial blood parasites. These may be seen without a microscope in the bedding or in and around the cage. This mite has a wide range of hosts that includes other rodents, and this one will attack humans. It is transmitted by direct contact with an infected animal, but also may arrive in contaminated bedding or wood products. Be careful not to buy open bags of bedding for this reason. Freezing your bedding before using may help eradicate these mites.

The life cycles of external parasites are fairly simple as compared to internal parasites. In order to rid your pets of external parasites you need to understand their life cycles. The adults are easily killed, but the eggs are left behind and will hatch after the first treatment. Mites are arachnids, so they have eight legs. In the mite, life cycle stage one is the egg, or nit, which hatches to stage two, the six-legged nymph (larvae). In stage three, they molt into the eight-legged nymph, and then into the final stage, the adult. It may take only a week for the mites to complete the life cycle.You have to hit them when in the nymph or adult stage of life. This is why it’s so important to disinfect your cage at least once a week, and, anything in it, as well as treat your pets more than one time to kill all the parasites. Disinfecting with bleach is the fastest and easiest way to kill any type of microorganisms in the cage, including bacteria, virus, or fungi. Throw away anything made of wood as the eggs or nits may be hidden in it, and wood is not easily disinfected.

Insects such as lice are six legged creatures. Lice spend their entire life cycle on the host in just three stages: egg, nymph, adult. Their life cycle may be as long as 14-21 days. They lay their sticky eggs (nits) on the hairshaft so you can actually see them. This is where the phrase “nit picking” comes from; you can actually pick them out of the fur yourself.

The life cycle will determine how often you treat, but the type of treatment is also a factor. There are several ways to treat: oral, injectable, and topical. Each type of treatment has its advantages and disadvantages. It’s best to see your vet to get a diagnosis before initiating any treatment, although treatment for most of these creatures is the same.

Ivermectin, dosed orally or as an injectable, is often used safely in rodents, but it is not the be-all, end-all answer to parasite problems. You must still disinfect the cage and everything in it, or you will never stop the problem. Be aware that Ivermectin is a drug, and while it is relatively safe, as with any drug, the possibility exists that it can have adverse reactions in certain individual pets sensitive or allergic to it.

Topical treatments are sometimes safe, but they, too, can cause adverse reactions, and often are not very effective. There are powders, dips, foams, sprays, shampoos, insecticide strips, and guards on the market. Many of these are not at all safe for rodents. The dog and cat flea powders are not safe, they are too powerful and can poison your rat or mouse. The insecticide strips and mite guards for birds also are not safe. Rodents may eat them through the bars of the cage, or the odor from them may expedite respiratory problems, forcing them to be placed so far away from the mice and rats that they are not effective.

Dips, foams, sprays, and shampoos with the active ingredient pyrethrins, at no higher than 0.15%, are fairly safe, and some of them are effective. Pyrethrins are a natural substance that is extracted from chrysanthemum flowers. However, just because it is a natural substance does not mean it cannot be toxic to rodents. If a product is safe for two-week-old kittens, it is probably safe for rodents, but you should check with your vet before using one.

If your rats or mice are miserable, itchy, and developing lesions, think about these nasty bugs, but have no fear because you can get rid of them!

This article is from the Rat Health Care booklet. Order one today! Check out the info at Rat Books |

Skin Problems

by Debbie "The Rat Lady" Ducommun

The most common skin problem in rats is caused by itching. The rat scratches herself which creates scabs, most often on the neck and shoulders, but sometimes also on the face, chin, or forehead. These scabs are sometimes mistaken for injuries caused by other rats. The causes of itching are fur mites, an allergy, excessive dietary protein (such as fish or cat food), eczema, and a fungus infection. A bacterial infection of the skin may also be involved, but it is rarely the primary cause.

Itching also seems to be related to stress, common for eczema. It's also possible that some rats infested with mites can keep them under control until their immune system is suppressed by stress. It's also possible that some rats with mites eventually develop an allergy to them. If you have more than one rat with scabs, it's probable that mites are the cause.

Regardless of the cause of the itching, when the rat scratches, her back toenails break the skin which can allow bacteria to enter. As the scratches heal, scabs form and can themselves itch which causes more scratching, resulting in a vicious cycle. The first step to breaking the itching cycle is to clip the rat's back toenails. Trimming off the sharp tips reduces the amount of damage the nails do to the skin. You might need to clip the nails as often as once or twice a week. You can also put a brick or concrete block in your rat's cage to help her wear down her toenails.

You might also apply a vitamin E cream or an antibiotic ointment to the scabs once or twice a day. Neosporin Plus contains a topical anesthetic which can be especially helpful. This treatment may be sufficient to clear up the scabs. If they recur, you need to look for another cause.

Trimming your rat's toenails is really quite easy to do once both you and the rat are used to it. The best tools to use are human fingernail clippers. Hold your rat on your lap facing left if you're right-handed (reverse these directions if you're left-handed). Press him against your stomach with your left forearm to hold him still and hold his foot in your left hand. Pull his foot backward and clip the nails with your right hand. You only need to clip off the sharp tip on the end of the nail. If you cut too much off, the nail will bleed. It's a good idea to have some styptic powder or silver nitrate sticks on hand to stop any bleeding, but if you're careful, bleeding rarely occurs. You can eliminate the chance of accidentally cutting a toe by holding the foot so only the nails stick out. Your fingers protect the toes.

If your rat really struggles, only do a few nails at a time. Reward him with a treat afterward. You can also distract him during the procedure by giving him a treat in the beginning.

If your rat is still itching, the next step should be to treat your rat for fur mites. Although you can have your vet do a skin scraping on your rat to test for mites, this often results in a false negative, so I recommend progressing right to the treatment. The most effective treatment is with ivermectin which paralyzes arthropods by overstimulating a neurotransmitter (GABA). Ivermectin is very safe for use in mammals because we use GABA only in the central nervous system, which is relatively impenetrable by ivermectin. In tests, calves showed signs of ivermectin toxicity only after receiving 20 times the normal dose.

You can get a prescription for oral ivermectin from your vet at a dose of 100-200 mcg/lb (some rats are sensitive to it by injection and can die), or you can buy a horse paste wormer containing ivermectin at a feed store or through a mail order catalog (one brand is Zimecterin). Squeeze out all the paste into a small container such as a film canister and mix it thoroughly. Then take a tiny bit of the paste the size of an uncooked grain of white rice and put it on a tiny piece of bread for your rat to eat. This dose should be repeated in a week. If necessary, a third dose can be given after another week. You can also use dog or cat ivermectin heart worm tablets, cutting them up into the proper dose.

Improvement is usually seen within the first week. You should treat all of your rats, since if one rat has the mites they probably all do, even if they don't all have scabs. Be sure to continue the toenail trimming and ointment until the scabs are gone.

Warning: Although lots of rats have been successfully treated with the ivermectin horse paste without problem, I know of one rat who became paralyzed the afternoon of her second dose and died 3 days later. Paralysis would be the result of an overdose. Perhaps the dose of paste she received was abnormally concentrated, as the owner did not mix up all the paste first before taking out doses. Or perhaps she was abnormally sensitive or developed an allergy to the paste. Or perhaps she had another problem. Use this method at your own risk.

The most common foods for a rat to be allergic to are peanuts and dairy products, including yogurt drops. Eliminate these items for at least two weeks to see if this solves the problem. If the problem is another allergy, or eczema, treatment with a steroid will stop the itching. You can try a hydrocortisone cream (be sure to rub it into the skin well), or ask your vet for oral predisone an antibiotic should be given with it because steroids depress the immune system). Sometimes the steroid treatment alone will clear up the problem, but if the itching returns after the treatment, you must try to identify what the rat is allergic to.

It is rare for a rat to be allergic or sensitive to most litters, other than pine or cedar shavings, but you might want to try changing your rat's litter or bedding. Because I think a rat can develop an allergy to fur mites, I recommend treating for mites if you can't identify another allergen.

If you know your rat's problem is an allergy, the next step is to test for further food allergies. A good testing diet is a mixture of cooked brown rice and raw millet, plus 1 teaspoon of Nutri-Cal per day. You can buy Nutri-Cal at any vet hospital. If you see an improvement in 7-10 days you then add foods one at a time to see if they cause itching. If you identify the food your rat is allergic to, then you can put her back on a normal diet, minus the offending food.

It is also possible for a rat to have eczema, which causes itching with no known cause. The treatment in this case is a topical steroid cream or shampoo, and you often have to continue the treatment for the rest of the rat's life.

If your rat hasn't responded to the ivermectin or the prednisone, the only thing left is to have your vet treat your rat for a fungal infection. Like the skin scraping for mites, biopsies or skin scrapings for fungus often yield a false negative. Therefore, you must try the treatment.

If the infection isn't too advanced, try an over-the-counter cream such as Lotrimin. Antifungal shampoos don't seem to work. For severe infections, you may need to use an oral fungicide such as Nizoral (ketoconazole). Treatment can take several weeks up to 3 months. Because fungus thrives on sugar, a rat with a fungal infection should receive only limited amount of sugar (including fruit) in his diet.

While oily dandruff is normal in intact males, dry skin and dandruff can be symptom of a poor diet. If your rat is getting an adequate diet, try giving a supplement containing essential fatty acids. Dry dandruff can also occur in rats with hindquarter paralysis since they can't groom themselves normally. If the humidity in the air is too low, it usually affects the tail rather than the skin. This can prevent the dead skin cells on the tail from shedding properly resulting in patches of scaly skin and discoloration. The solution is to run a humidifier in the room.

Ringtail is a skin problem caused by dehydration that is occasionally seen in baby or hairless rats, and rarely in haired adults. Dehydration can occur if baby or hairless rats are kept on litter that is too absorbent (commonly corn cob litter) or in any rat if the water bottle malfunctions. In babies ringtail causes a constriction at the base of the tail. In adults it can cause a moist oozing sore at the base of the tail. The problem usually goes away when the rats are rehydrated, although if the problem is bad enough a baby may lose part of her tail.

There are two main causes of bald spots in rats. The most common is barbering, a behavior where a rat obsessively grooms itself or another rat to the point of nibbling off the hair. The result is bald patches or areas where the hair looks like it's had a bad haircut. Usually there is no damage to the skin, but sometimes there can be scabs. The most common areas for self-barbering are the front legs and stomach. The most common areas for barbering another rat are on the head, face, neck, and shoulders. These bald spots are not usually symmetrical. Because this behavior doesn't usually cause any health problems, there is no reason to separate a barber from her roommates, unless you are showing your rats. Another cause of bald spots is fungus (see above.)

Another type of hair loss is a general thinning of the hair. This can occur in a rat infested with lice or tropical rat mites. Although in these cases the rat usually doesn't self-inflict scabs, constant scratching can cause general hair loss, most commonly on the back. Rex rats may tend to have thinning hair as they grow older or if they are stressed due to disease.

In some other animals, such as dogs and cats, a hormone problem can cause hair thinning, although I haven't seen this in rats. This type of hair loss is usually seen on the flanks, hindquarters and sometimes the stomach and is usually symmetrical.